A properly maintained fence in Alaska can last 20-30+ years. Neglect it and you'll be replacing it in 10. Here's the seasonal maintenance schedule we recommend to every customer after 30+ years of building and repairing fences in Anchorage, Eagle River, Palmer, and Wasilla.
Spring (April - May): Damage Assessment
Spring is your most important inspection season. Winter does real damage in Alaska — this is when you find out how much.
April: Post-Winter Walkthrough
- Walk the entire fence line — look for leaning posts, heaved posts, broken boards, and damaged hardware. Take photos for comparison next year.
- Check for frost heave — are any posts sitting higher than their neighbors? Can you see concrete collars above the soil line? Heaved posts need immediate attention before the ground softens further.
- Test every gate — open and close each gate. Does it latch properly? Does it drag on the ground? If the Maisey Latch is misaligned, the posts may have shifted.
- Inspect chain link tension — winter snow load can stretch chain link mesh. Look for sagging or detached tie wires.
May: Repairs & Cleanup
- Schedule repairs — call us for any damage beyond DIY (heaved posts, structural damage, gate realignment). May is ideal — we're available and the ground is workable.
- Clear the fence line — remove debris, leaves, and dead vegetation that accumulated over winter. Debris against cedar panels traps moisture and accelerates rot.
- Power wash — if you plan to stain your cedar fence, power wash it now so it has 2-4 weeks to dry before staining in June.
Summer (June - August): Staining & Improvement
Summer is your window for proactive maintenance. Make the most of it — it's short.
June-July: Staining Season
- Stain cedar fences — this is the only reliable staining window in Alaska. You need consecutive days of 50F+ temperatures with no rain for proper stain penetration and cure. June-July is the sweet spot.
- Choose the right stain — semi-transparent oil-based stains penetrate best in Alaska's climate. Avoid film-forming stains (solid color) as they peel from temperature cycling.
- UV protection is critical — Alaska's 18-22 hours of summer daylight means intense UV exposure. Stain with UV inhibitors is essential to prevent graying.
August: Hardware & Finishing
- Oil all hardware — gate hinges, latches, and spring closers. Use a silicone-based lubricant, not WD-40 (it attracts dirt and washes off).
- Replace damaged boards — swap out any split, cracked, or warped cedar boards before fall. New boards stain best when fresh.
- Trim vegetation — cut back any trees, shrubs, or bushes touching the fence. Plant contact holds moisture against wood and promotes rot.
Fall (September - October): Winter Prep
September and October are your last chance to prepare your fence for 5-6 months of winter assault.
September: Final Inspection
- Walk the fence again — anything you missed in spring or that developed over summer needs attention now, before winter.
- Tighten everything — screws, bolts, brackets, and tie wires. Thermal contraction in winter will loosen anything that's already marginal.
- Check for ground contact — bottom rails and pickets touching the soil rot faster. Ideally, cedar should have 1-2 inches of clearance above grade.
October: Winterize
- Clear the fence line completely — no leaves, debris, or vegetation should be piled against fence panels going into winter.
- Grade soil away from posts — water flowing toward posts in fall will freeze around them in winter, increasing frost heave risk.
- Secure loose boards — any board that's loose will catch wind. Chinook winds in November-March can rip loose boards off entirely.
- Gate adjustment — if your gate drags in summer, it may freeze shut in winter. Adjust clearance now. If you have a Maisey Latch, verify the striker is centered in the channel.
Winter (November - March): Monitoring
Winter maintenance is minimal but important:
- Manage snow accumulation — if snow piles more than 3 feet against a solid fence panel, the lateral pressure can push posts over. Knock heavy drifts away from the fence.
- After storms, inspect — Chinook wind events, heavy snow, and ice storms all damage fences. Walk the fence after any major weather event.
- Don't attempt repairs — unless it's an emergency (fence down, security breach), wait until spring. Frozen ground makes post work nearly impossible without specialized equipment.
- Plan ahead — if you know you need spring work (repairs, new sections, staining), book your contractor in January-February. Contact us early — spring schedules fill fast.
Maintenance by Fence Type
Cedar Fence
- Stain every 2-3 years (June-July window)
- Replace 2-5 boards per year (normal attrition from temperature cycling)
- Power wash annually before staining
- Oil gate hardware twice yearly (spring and fall)
- Expected lifespan with maintenance: 25-30 years
Chain Link Fence
- Nearly zero maintenance — that's its biggest advantage
- Re-tension mesh if it sags from snow load
- Replace corroded tie wires
- Oil gate hinges and latches annually
- Expected lifespan: 25-40 years
Ornamental Fence
- Inspect powder coating annually for chips or scratches
- Touch up damaged coating immediately to prevent rust (iron/steel)
- Aluminum requires almost no maintenance
- Check welds for cracking from thermal expansion/contraction
- Expected lifespan: 20-50 years depending on material
When to Call a Professional
DIY maintenance handles most seasonal tasks, but call Maisey Fence for repairs when you see:
- Posts heaved more than 1 inch
- Posts leaning more than 5 degrees
- Gates that won't latch despite adjustment
- Multiple broken rails in one section
- Storm damage to 3+ fence panels
- Fence sections that are structurally compromised
Or skip all the DIY and let us handle it with a Maisey Membership plan — annual inspections, stain touch-ups, and repair discounts starting at $15/month.